Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides: Warm Weather Ice Climbing!

The last week has been beautiful warm winter weather, making for perfect ice conditions and comfortable belaying!

The fun started with Pat & Susie joining me from Calgary for a day on Guinness Gully. They are always great to get out with and were psyched to be back on the ice. Despite it being a Saturday we had the climb entirely to ourselves!

Susie rappelling down the middle pitch.

The next day I met up with Dan & Tezla at the parking lot for Coire Dubh Integral, but the wind was raging so we decided that it would be better to head somewhere more sheltered. I've been on Coire Dubh before when the wind was causing rockfall and didn't want to repeat the experience! So, we headed into K-Country and hiked up to Moonlight & Snowline, two classic WI4 routes side by side and about 100m long. They were both in great shape, although we got pretty wet on Moonlight at the end of the day!

Dan rappelling down Moonlight in Evan Thomas Creek.

The next day I joined Steve Holeczi & Steve Swenson for a trip into the Ghost River for a lap on The Fang & Fist. It is a really aesthetic route consisting of two steep pillar pitches and a final curtain to the top. I think the route would often be quite challenging WI5 climbing, but in it's current hooked-out & warm condition it was as easy as ice that steep could possibly get. Nonetheless, it was lots of fun and I always enjoying getting into the Ghost!

Approaching Fang & Fist.

Holeczi on the crux first pitch of Fang & Fist.

The next day the two Steve's and I drove out to Field for some mixed climbing beside Pilsner Pillar (the pillar itself was uber-wet), and finished up with a quick lap on Carlesbourg Column.