Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Attempt on Suntori (VI M7 WI6, 1500m)

Last week I hooked up with experienced alpinist Eammon Walsh for an attempt at a massive mixed route up Mt. Wilson. "Suntori" was put up by my good friend Dave Edgar along with Dave Marra & Cory B about 10 years ago and remains unrepeated.

"Suntori" is the thin strip of ice up the middle of the photo.

After a long slog to the base and a cold cold bivi (-30C that night!), Eammon and I dragged ourselves out of bed and hiked up to the start. The first pitch was nice M6 climbing with relativaly good protection. The second pitch went at A2 on the first ascent but I managed (barely!) to scrape my way up it at about M7 and got super pumped in the process. An easier pitch of ice led to the base of the WI6 section just as the sun came around the corner. Within about 10 seconds it went from ridiculously cold to ridiculously hot. The snow started softening almost immediately so we made a hasty retreat before any avalanche activity could begin. We were dissapointed that we had to bail from above the crux but it certainly felt like the safe decision. So, Suntori remains unrepeated, for now...

Me leading the M7 crux.

J. Mills
CRAG Owner & Head Guide

No comments:

Post a Comment