Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Professor Falls & Water Hole with Jarrid

Shortly after returning from a climbing trip to Patagonia, I met up with Jarrid from Edmonton for a couple of days on the ice.  We had nice mild temperatures & plastic ice, always a treat when ice climbing! 

Jarrid approaching a very wet pitch on Professor's.
On the first day we climbed on our bicycles and pedaled into Professor Falls near Banff.  Despite the great weather we were surprised to be alone on the climb all day.  The first couple pitches offered some steep but hooked out climbing on great ice.  A number of easier pitches brought us to the final crux pillar.  It was in great WI4 shape and we were soon shaking hands on top.  I usually rappel the route, but since many of the anchors are buried under ice this year we decided to do the walk off instead.  Back at the bikes we completed the sketchier part of the day by pedaling back down the icy trail to the car. 

Jarrid leading a short section on Professors

The next day Jarrid had to drive back to Edmonton so we chose a shorter objective and headed up to the Water Hole.  The second pitch had melted out quite a bit since I was last there in December, but we managed to hook our way up the section of manky ice to thicker ice above.  We then climbed a 5.4 pitch to reach the mixed climb above.  The mixed pitch (M4ish) isn't too pumpy but has some very thin & balancy moves which make it rather challenging. 

Rappelling over the thin section on The Water Hole.

Jay Mills
CRAG Head Guide

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