A couple weeks ago, Kevin joined me for an attempt at the East Ridge of Mt. Temple. I knew there was a storm system moving in but I thought we might be able to beat it to the summit! Unfortunately it didn't work out that way but we did have a fun and adventurous day anyways.
We started up the route at just after 2am, and cruised up the lower slopes and into the quartzite gullies. Kevin has superhuman fitness so we moved very fast and were way up the route before sunrise.
We started up the route at just after 2am, and cruised up the lower slopes and into the quartzite gullies. Kevin has superhuman fitness so we moved very fast and were way up the route before sunrise.
An easier scrambling section as we moved up to the snow line.
It has been spitting on and off all morning (night?) but it changed to wet snow as we reached the Big Step. We decided to give it a shot anyways in the hopes that things would clear up. We climbed 2 steep pitches with boots & gloves on before calling it quits. Retreating off the East Ridge is a daunting prospect to most people, but there is a way to go into a large bowl to the South-East that only requires a few rappels and a bit of downclimbing. It went smoothly and we were back at the car a few hours later.
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Kevin cruising up wet 5.7 quartzite with his gloves on!
Hopefully if Kevin gets a chance to try the route again in the future, he won't need to wear gloves on the crux 5.7 climbing!
J. Mills
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