Valley of 10 Peaks - Perren Route

At the very exposed belay station above the chains on the Perren Route.

Had a fun adventure up and down the Perren Route to the glaciers below Mt. Fay with a couple from Ottawa. They had never done any outdoor climbing before but both did awesome in all of the difficult sections of the route!

Climbing in the upper limestone band, above the chains.

We started walking around Moraine Lake at 6:00am and it was a beautifull morning. After an hour or so we got the rope out and began the fun scrambling sections. All went well and we soon reached the two pitches of nice quartzite climbing (about 5.4) halfway up. Once above this we continued on to the upper limestone section and the famous 25 meter chain that was placed by Parks Mountain Safety Specialists a number of years ago. Despite the chain, this section is still the crux of the route and provided lots of excitement! A pitch of traversing and another of snow led to the glacier. We did a short tour on the ice over to the Niel Colgan hut and visited with some other climbers before decending the route via a few rappels and lots of down scrambling.

On the glacier, with Mt. Little in the background.

It was a fun day out and we had awesome views throughout! Mt. Fay looked to be in good conditions, although the bergshrunds on the N. Face gullies are opening up fast.

J. Mills

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