Got up early yesterday and headed into Mt. Edith to see if I could find a feasable winter route up the East Face. What I found was an excellent narrow slot leading to the summit ridge. The climbing consisted of snow to 70 degrees, and lots of 4th class to 5.5 rock. The rock was well frozen in place and the climbing was overall really nice in a cool feature. I wouldn't be suprised if someone had climbed this line in the summer as a result of getting lost trying to find the South Ridge route. It is the first prominent gash about 300m right of the start of the south ridge. It is NOT the wider gash that leads directly to the summit. I descended via the summer scramble route. Very very careful routefinding was required to avoid excessive exposure to avalanche slopes.
.JPG)
The west face and south ridge of Mt. Edith. I don't have a pic of the East face because it was dark as I was approaching.
.JPG)
The upper half of the route as the sun hit it. The route follows the main snow feature then moves right into the skinnier strip of snow/ice up higher.
.JPG)
Looking down at the upper part of the South Ridge after climbing it to the summit.
J. Mills
CRAG Owner/Lead Guide
No comments:
Post a Comment